The Tucson Gardener

Mandevilla 'Red Riding Hood'.
Mandevilla 'Red Riding Hood'.

 Current Cultivations

Garden Clubs

Garden Books

In the Garden Calendar

Tucson's Wildlife

Male pyrrhuloxia.
Hot and thirsty Pyrrhuloxia.

Local Garden Links

Links for Special Needs

The Archive

The Tool Shed

Red Fairy Duster bloom.
Fairy Duster bloom.

FAQ

Glossary

Search

Site Index


You're visiting Tucsongardener.com

 

 

Getting Potted
How to Plant Your Container
O
nce you've found the perfect pots they're going to need to be placed in the garden, filled with a planting mix and planted.  Sounds simple and generally it is but sometimes there are a few things to consider. Listed below are some ideas you might want to consider to preserve your low fired clay pottery, save on potting soil for extra large containers, change the seasonal plants in the pots quickly and easily, and cut down on summertime mosquitoes that can breed in pottery saucers.

Plant or Place the Pot First?
How many times have you watched a gardening show where the host stands in front of the camera, with everything sitting on the table in front of him or her, showing how to fill a container with annual color finishing it all off with a nice thorough watering of the plants. The final shot shows the completed container placed strategically in a window box, on the patio, or sitting in the center of a table on the patio. Problem is, depending on the size of the pot, especially large Mexican clay, they can be darn near impossible to move by one person once they're filled with potting mix, planted and watered.

So before you start planting your pots make sure, if they have any size at all, that you place them in the garden, on the patio or where ever, before you plant them. If you have the slightest inkling of back problems find someone else to do it for you. Some of today's large clay pottery and stoneware is incredibly heavy. You'll save yourself a lot of possible grief. You can always replace a pot or recover from a pulled muscle, but you can't always fix a damaged spine. That type of injury can live with you the rest of your life.

Certainly some of the small six to ten inch clay pots can be filled with soil and planted on a bench or table. But to cut down on weight, don't water until you put them where you want them.

A large 23 pound or 64 quart bag of potting soil is pretty heavy as well. You can fill a bucket with soil and carry it to the large pot. It may take a trip or two but you won't hurt yourself in the process.  If you're a regular gardener and endowed with a bit of arm muscle then you can put a whole bag of potting soil into a wheel barrow along with a soil scoop or shovel and then roll it to the pot that needs filling and planting.

Extending the Life of Clay Pots
If you're an avid container gardener with a substantial investment in small and large containers you'll want them to look as good as they can for as long as possible. That means protecting some of them from moisture as best you can.

The Plastic Pot Insert
Plastic pots don't look all that great in the landscape although mixed in with clay pottery and the vegetation you sometimes won't know they're there. The lifespan of plastic, especially if exposed to the desert sun can be brief because the plastic breaks down pretty quickly if it doesn't have UV inhibitors. Go to move one of those big plastic pots after a few months in a sunny area and there is a good chance the rim might break off or the bottom fall out.

The big boxes, Lowe's and Home Depot usually have a fairly good selection of relatively inexpensive green, gray and terra cotta colored plastic pots. Some have an attached saucer or you can buy the plastic saucers separately. The plastic pots area a great way to extend the life of some of your less water repellant clay pottery. And since the pot is placed inside the clay pot the plastic doesn't break down as quickly because it's not exposed to direct sun.

And since the plastic isn't as porous as the clay pottery there won't be as much evaporation so you shouldn't have to water quite as often. Another advantage is the plastic is insulated by the outside clay pot keeping the plastic and soil from heating up in the summer. All those characteristics of the plastic pot are advantageous but not all the news is good. The plastic isn't porous so not as much oxygen gets to the plant roots and if you're not careful with your watering the tray beneath the pot can fill with water and eventually water log the roots. You need to make sure to water the plants only when they need it and not out of routine or habit.

Inexpensive plastic saucer is wedged into this glazed Mexican pot in preparation for a plastic pot insert.

Plastic saucer insert.

Plastic pot fits perfectly inside this clay pot to help reduce future moisture penetration.

Plastic pot insert.

One more thing to consider about plastic pot inserts is the convenience of changing out the plants, especially annuals. If you keep a few extra plastic pots around you can get replacement plants ready to go into the clay pot when the original starts to look past its prime. All you have to do is lift out one plastic pot and replace it with a freshly planted one. Quick, easy and the garden doesn't have any down time.

The Plastic Bag Insert
Another less expensive way to protect your clay pots from moisture erosion is to use a plastic trash bag insert. For really big pots you can use the 33 gallon trash bags, for smaller pots there are 13 gallon kitchen bags. Line the pot with a trash bag and make sure to push the bag through the drainage hole. You'll want the excess water to drain out of the pot and not sit in the bottom of the pot. I'd add a bit of coarse material, whether large stone, pottery shards or Styrofoam to aid in drainage before I add the potting soil.  Finally, be sure to cut an opening in the bottom of the plastic through the hole in the pot to assure good drainage.

The main problem with the trash bag insert is you have to trim the bag so it doesn't show at the top of the pot. And you don't want to trim it so low that when you water moisture runs down the side of the pot between the plastic bag and the pottery. A mulch of wood chips, compost, or even small stones might aid in hiding the trimmed plastic. Some plants like petunias or sweet alyssum would grow over the edge of the container and hide the plastic.

Plastic bag is placed inside the clay pot and a plastic pot is inserted for extra protection. Bag is trimmed and hidden beneath the rim of the pot.

Double protection from plastic bag and plastic pot.

To assure proper drainage a hole is cut in the plastic bag.

Plastic is cut to insure proper drainage.

Another way is to insert a plastic pot without a saucer inside a plastic bag. You've got double the protection and you can be assured the moisture will run out of the bottom of the container. It's also easier to trim the plastic and poke it down around the sides of the plastic pot so it doesn't show.

Cooler Coating and Water Sealants/Repellants
If you've ever done maintenance on an older evaporative cooler then you've probably painted the bottom pan with a black cooler coating to try to keep the rust/corrosion at bay. Many of the Mexican clay pots also come with a brushed on black coating on the interior of the pot as a method to slow down moisture absorption. Problem is the coating doesn't go all the way to the top of the pot nor is it applied thickly enough to really do a thorough job of stopping the moisture in the potting soil from moving into the porous clay. If you like using a messy, sticky, tar like substance to try and prolong an inexpensive clay pots life feel free. Personally I found it to be more work than it was worth.

Liquid water sealants and repellants can also be brushed or sprayed on to the inside of unglazed clay pots. I'd save the method for a really expensive fairly well fired and glazed pot that cost a bundle. The hope is the sealant will fill the holes in the clay. How long it will last or even if it works is debatable and you always have to wonder if these products will leach into the potting soil and affect the way a plant grows.

The I Don't Want to Use Two Bags of Expensive Potting Soil to Fill My Large Clay Pot Syndrome
You've invested a couple hundred dollars or more on large clay pots and it becomes time to plant them. You purchase a bag or two of what you think is the best potting soil on the market and hand over 25 or 30 dollars. All of a sudden it seems like container gardening can get way too expensive if all you want to do is plant a few seasonal bedding plants to add a little color to the garden. And why do the plants need 30 - inches a soil depth to grow? Bedding plants probably don't. Trees and shrubs will.

If you're concerned about using too much potting soil you don't think is needed then you'll have to place a filler in the bottom of the large container. Light weight materials are best: packing peanuts, cut up Styrofoam, crushed aluminum cans or empty water and soda plastic bottles with lids. Don't use the bio-degradable packing peanuts because they dissolve when wet. Your filler would disappear, defeating its purpose.

Thirty-three gallon trash bag and a mix of crushed aluminum cans, water and soda bottles are used to take up space in this large Mexican clay pot.

Recycled cans and bottles are used as filler.

Landscape fabric is cut  roughly to fit over the pot filler. Then make sure you leave enough depth for potting soil allowing for good plant root development and moisture retention depending on what you plant.

Allow plenty of room for good root growth and water retention.

The pot is filled with potting mix and then, if one is used, the plastic bag is trimmed to make it less obvious. Make sure to make a hole in the bag through the pot's drainage hole.

Trim the trash bag liner as you fill the pot with potting mix.

Once you've filled the pot to the level you want you'll have to put a material over the filler so the potting soil doesn't work its way down filtering into the cracks. The material needs to be porous so water can also filter through. A piece of landscape fabric or the non metallic window screen will work. Once everything is in place, then add your potting soil and plants.

One other option to consider. If the pot isn't three feet tall you could use a less expensive potting soil on the bottom and the premium grade for the last 10 -12 inches.

Pot Saucers and Mosquitoes
When you water potted plants excess water is going to drain out the bottom hole. The problem is the pots are generally sitting on concrete, flagstone, pavers, brick, porch or patio. That water carries fertilizer and other soil ingredients out the bottom with it and as it sits on the hard surface it can leave a stain. To prevent that you'll want to place some sort of saucer, whether clay or plastic, beneath the pot to catch the excess water. Once again there are a couple of potential problems.

Often the clay pot sits directly on the saucer and when the water drains, the bottom of the clay pot sits in a pool of water. That water starts penetrating back into the clay. You can actually have the moisture attacking the clay from the damp soil inside the pot and from without. All that moisture can be brutal on low temperature fired clay Mexican style of pottery as well as terra-cotta. Both begin to disintegrate. Any paint or thin glazing will begin to sluff off, then the clay begins to crumble. Don't let clay pottery sit in water.

Small pieces of flat flagstone, bricks, pot feet or even filling the saucer with pea gravel can be used to raise the pots elevation so, in theory, the excess water fills the saucer and the bottom of the pot remains dry.

Those saucers of water can turn into productive breeding grounds for mosquitoes in July and into fall if they don't dry out quickly between watering. There is nothing more unpleasant than to try and enjoy the patio in the evening and have to abandon the plan because of hungry blood sucking mosquitoes.

Mosquito Dunks®, which can be purchased at local hardware and the big box stores are a biological mosquito control that attacks the mosquito larvae in the water for up to 30 days. They can be broken into smaller pieces and placed in the pot saucers to actively kill any larvae. They will continue to work if the saucer temporarily dries out and then fills again. Keep in mind they work on mosquito larvae and not the adults that continue to bite and lay eggs 

Donut looking Mosquito Dunks can be broken into smaller pieces. Individual pieces can then be placed in pottery saucers during the summer mosquito season to kill the larvae over a 30 day period.

Hard Water & Efflorescence
Clay pottery that is used on a regular basis is not going to look like new forever. The natural clay and terra cotta will shows signs of efflorescence where the natural minerals and salts will leach out leaving a white line or white residue. Water stains will occur and general build up of hard water and dirt will also occur even on the well glazed pottery.

Terms like patina, rustic, weathered, or natural beauty might be used by some to describe the gradual aging of the pottery. To others, it might be signs that pottery needs to be replaced. It's a matter of opinion and each gardener will have to decide what looks acceptable in their garden.

Return to Getting Potted

Choosing the Right Pot

Where to Find the Right Pot

(2008)


Current Cultivations  |  Garden Clubs  |  Garden Books  |  In the Garden Calendar  |  Tucson's Wildlife  |  Local Links  |  Links for Special Needs  |  The Archive  |  The Tool Shed  |  FAQ  |
 |  Glossary  |  Search  |  Site Index  |


The Tucson Gardener - Tucson's Gardening Information Site
Copyright© 1998-2008. All Rights Reserved 
Disclaimer

 No material, written or photographic, may be reprinted or used without written permission.
Contact Information.