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Planning for
Spring All those trees and shrubs producing new growth could use a little extra food to give them strength and encouragement when they start growing. That's why you want to consider doing some feeding in February so the nutrients will be in the soil and available to the plants when they start expending all that energy putting out new leaves, flowering and sending out shoots. The food is nutrients found in fertilizer whether organic or the inorganic. It's found in bags, boxes, bottles or in the form of pellets or spikes or whatever else the fertilizer companies have come up with to sell their products to consumers. Rose food, tree and shrub food, tomato food, vegetable food, African violet food and plain old plant food are all names you'll spot on the shelf. Names that are nothing more than a sales tactic asking you to "reach for us and take us to the sales counter".
Are fertilizers really plant food? So you better know what you really need to purchase to make your plants grow better before you head off to buy your fertilizer. Mainly it's the N, P, and K - nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium the three primary nutrients that plants require along with oxygen, hydrogen and carbon which they get from the air and water. Other nutrients include calcium, magnesium and sulfur and then the trace elements of iron, manganese, copper, boron, zinc, chlorine and molybdenum. Sixteen crucial elements for good plant growth. All this stuff makes me wish I'd paid more attention in my chemistry and soil science classes when I had the opportunity. But not to worry. What desert gardeners are really interested in for Tucson's desert soils is nitrogen and phosphorous. Most of the other elements are all ready in the soil and we don't have to worry about them unless something goes astray and they get hooked up with some other element and become unavailable to the plant. Nitrogen promotes the plants overall growth of leaves and stems. The phosphorous helps flowering, fruiting and root growth while the potassium helps flowering, fruiting and the plant's resistance to disease. If you've purchased fertilizers you've seen the bags of ammonium sulfate with the 21-0-0 percentage rating and the ammonium phosphate with the 16-20-0. The numbers indicate the percentage of nitrogen then phosphorus and finally potassium. There's plenty of potassium in our soil so that's why there's the big zero in the percentage rating on these two highly used chemical fertilizers.
Making fertilizer available to the plant The granular ammonium sulfate is water soluble so it can get washed into the soil and quickly become available to the plant. Maybe too quickly as it flushes down past the roots with each watering. Several small applications over a period of time would be more beneficial than one all at once application. There are slower releasing fertilizers available so that the nutrients are supplied to the plants over a longer period of time. Good for the plant and a time saver for the gardener because one application will last a long time. If you're adverse to the chemical applications you can add the slower releasing organic
fertilizers like a well composted manure or even compost if you happen to have a good supply
available. These will, while working with soil organisms, All fertilizer packages come with instruction for their usage. Read the labels, follow instructions, or apply less than suggested. More is not better. Excess fertilizer can actually damage the roots of a plant. For the few plants that show a specific ailment like zinc or iron chlorosis you might want to take a sample to your garden center or to Ag. Extension for possible diagnosis and suggestions for the best cure.
Remembering where we live We forget we live in the desert where the soils are less than perfect and the native vegetation has adapted to soil, climate and low amounts of rainfall. The native plants do quite well without the regular application of fertilizer. If you're using large amounts of chemical fertilizers to maintain your garden maybe you need to take a lesson in evolution and learn to adapt to your environment instead of trying to change it. But then, like many a gardener, you might ask, "where's the challenge in that?" (1999) |
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